Medlar
WLC overall ranking: 61
WLC REVIEW: “Head sommelier, Didier Catelo was previously wine buyer for Ernst and Young, with sorties at The Ledbury, Hotel Du Vin, and in Paris, Le Bistrot du Sommelier. He also worked the ultimately lucky 2012 harvest at Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, an experience he describes as ‘humbling’.
“Medlar’s engaging wine list is a reflection of London, says Catelo, ‘being eclectic, multicultural, historical and forward looking’ – not unlike the ethos of designer, Vivienne Westwood whose boutique is a few doors down the King’s Road. His by-the-glass selection offers a window into the greater list, which may include atypical, even punk, ‘Zind’ – a Chardonnay and Auxerrois from Zind-Humbrecht, Orange Airén from La Mancha, as well as Portugal’s Post Scriptum, and Palo Cortado sherry.
“To qualify a place on Catelo’s list, a wine must mirror the philosophy of Medlar’s food, explains Catelo, ‘being generous, welcoming , deliciously good, and with identity.’ Of the world as a vineyard, Catelo is lyrical. ‘There are pearls in every ocean, sea, lake and river – the Great Rift Valley, or a grape such as Koshu in Japan, or a cuvée such as El Molar from Casa Castillo…’ Catelo particularly hopes to expand the offer from the Balkans, too, which he regularly visits, ‘but without falling over in the fashionable side.’
“Expect a rich seam of Champagne and sparkling wines, including Charles Heidsieck’s Blanc des Millenaires, Billecart-Salmon’s Brut Sous Bois, and Steven Spurrier’s Brut Reserve from Dorset’s Bride Valley, as well as enigmatic sparkling Gamay in the form of Jean Paul Brun’s FRV100 which sounds like a superbike. In terms of still wine, there is a big bang of France, Germany, Austria, Italy and Spain, as well as dry Furmint from Hungary, Swiss Chardonnay, Moroccan Syrah, and Sangiovese from Victoria, Australia, as well as a neat selection from the USA and Canada.”
NB. £10 corkage applies at lunch; £25 at dinner.