High Timber
Owned by Neleen Strauss, a South African native and passionate advocate of its wines, High Timber was founded in collaboration with Stellenbosch wine estate, Jordan. The restaurant, overlooking the River Thames and the Tate Modern, remains a go-to for rare and aged South African wine.
Below is an extract from Douglas Blyde’s review, written before lockdown:
In response to a news item reporting that South African wine exports fell by 23% last year, vigorous, outspoken and humorous restaurateur, Neleen Strauss retorted, “ok, I’m on my way to work. Will work harder!”
Strauss is the mien host of the art-rich Thames-side High Timber restaurant, in collaboration with Gary and Cathy Jordan of the eponymous Stellenbosch estate, hence Jordan Chameleon white is the house pour. However, the selection is not limited to the full liquid history of Jordan alone, being a hearty embrace of the best of South Africa today. Bottles are showcased alongside souvenirs collected from vineyards such as rocks and the odd porcupine quill. These include lots from the Cape Winemakers Guild Auction and an immodest quantity of Kanonkop Paul Sauer 2015. Of the latter, Strauss says, “not the most expensive, but the first South African to get 100 points.” There are also some bottles from other territories, including renditions from Strauss’ favourite Champagne producer, Billecart-Salmon Champagne, a Grand Cru Alsace Riesling from Julien Schaal who also has impressive holdings in South Africa, and in magnum, Leflaive Chassagne-Montrachet. The list is updated list often, with at least one new producer showcased via a chalkboard each month.
Strauss regularly returns to South Africa, recently enjoying a memorable tasting at fellow Stellenbosch producer, Oldenburg. “I had to drive the ATV and almost went down one of the massive mountains!” she recalls.
Book in for regular producer dinners, such as the particularly raucous one hosted by Chenin Blanc fanatic, Ken Forrester. “What happens in the private room… History has taught me it’s safer for all involved not to write about Ken” admits Strauss, adding: “the most memorable event from last year was a slightly mad customer who started burning corks and gave each guest two black cork marks on their cheeks. Mobile phones got banned at speed!”
