28-50 Maddox Street
17-19 Maddox Street, Mayfair , W1S 2QH
WLC Rank : 265
Glass from : £ 5.20 (125 ml)
The expert sommelier team, led by Clement Robert MS, in their own words, like to keep things ‘simple’, offering ‘a range of 15 red and 15 white wines by the glass, carafe and bottle’, adhering to the philosophy to ‘only serve wines we like, that are interesting, drink well and offer good value.’ This may include a 75ml serve of voluptuous Meursault crafted by Anne Boisson, or umami-laden, 75ml copita of Amontillado (Gutiérrez Colosía).
Spanning two floors of prime real estate, the newest Mayfair outpost is, as with the venues at Fetter Lane and Marylebone, a treat of a destination for wine obsessives. Decor fuses industrial squirrel cage light bulbs with Mediterranean tiles and dovetailed wine crates. Particularly interesting is the ‘Collectors’ list offering unusual and mature wines such as Muscadet with over 10 years of age (Pierre Luneau – Papin, ‘Le L d’Or’), and even a magnum of 2011 Grűner Veltliner (Samaragd, F. Hirtzberger, ‘Honivolgl’, Wachau) sold, reasonably in price, on behalf of friends of the restaurant.
Dishes, devised by Icelandic chef/patron owner, Agnar Sverrisson (who worked with Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons and also owns fine dining ‘Texture’ restaurant) are cleanly-wrought with an eye to being wine friendly, from starter of Maldon or Blackwater oysters, served optionally naked of condiments, to perky stone bass ceviche with fennel, cucumber, sorrel and horseradish, and then grilled native lobster if you are feeling decadent.
Alternatively, soak up many renditions of fine ferment with a selection of cheeses from our islands and continental Europe, raised by La Fromagerie and a concise but well looked-after range of charcuterie.