Chiswell Street Dining Rooms
56 Chiswell Street, EC1Y 4SA
WLC Rank : 104
Glass from : £ 5.50 (175 ml)
Smart British restaurant from the eloquent and reliable ETM group (Ed and Tom Martin – The Gun, The Botanist) leading from The Montcalm London City hotel, but with its own entrance, close to Barbican and another ETM venue, The Jugged Hare.
The wine list is, notably, spaciously laid out, easily navigated and concise, without faddish distractions. Twenty-five wines offered by the glass represent nine countries, including a keenly-priced Tokaji from the Royal Tokaji Company.
Pricing is determinedly sub-£100 on the whole and mark-ups are relatively modest on fine bottles, including a magnum of Chasse-Spleen ’86 (a very good Cabernet vintage – £280 for a mag here) and Dom Pérignon 2003 (£250). Try organic English bubbles from Davenport with a starter of hay smoked chalk stream trout, or Whispering Angel from Provence with, from the feast menu, pig’s head terrine and piccalilli.
Continue on with main of Cumbrian Cob chicken with Saint Georges mushrooms and roast garlic with juicy Pinotage from the under-rated Stellenbosch producer Olifantsberg (£34.50).
By Zeren Wilson