41 Dean Street, Soho, W1D 4PY
WLC Rank : 191
Glass from : £ 7.05 (175 ml)
Indisputably a massive flag-bearer for the ‘natural’* wine movement, and the selection here changes swiftly enough for there to be a new discovery on most visits. Wines are chalked up on the wall and they aren’t afraid to list the ‘scarier’ natural wines, either.
The selection here is uncompromising, from the 12 or so wines offered by the 125ml glass – which might include amphora-aged orange wines, pétillant naturels, exotic no-added-sulphur bottlings – to the cellar board of some of the staff favourites. Therange stretches to about 70 wines at any one time.
While the weekly updating of the list means you can’t view the list online, you can often see what Duck Soup is pouring by following the team on Instagram @ducksoupsoho.
If you’re in Soho and are looking to have your gastronomic senses stirred, Duck Soup is a pretty dependable destination. You can even bring your own vinyl to play on the record player by the door. Shabba.
(Of course, the frequency with which the list changes means that the ‘Wine Picks’ listed below are only illustrative.)
By Zeren Wilson and Darren Smith
*While we’re on the subject of natural wine, there persists a myth that wine made without added sulphur dioxide won’t give you a hangover – presuming of course that you drink a hangover’s worth of the wine in the first place.
I have to tell you that it’s just not true – although it may give you more of a fighting chance…
Experiments have shown that sulphur dioxide messes with the action of a compound called glutathione. When the body processes booze, one set of enzymes converts alcohol to acetaldehyde. Glutathione then kicks in to convert acetaldehyde into acetate, which the body find easier to excrete.
Sulphur dioxide inhibits glutathione, which means acetaldehyde hangs around, which is not what you want: it’s up to 30 times more toxic than alcohol, hence the bastard behind the eyes, the nausea, the insuperable sense that your family and friends “are leagued in a barely contained conspiracy of silence about what a shit you are”, as Kingsley Amis puts it.
So, while you won’t be completely impervious to a hangover, if you want to keep the risk of the unpleasantness outlined above to a minimum, you will almost certainly fare better with natural wine.