Fenchurch

1 Sky Garden Walk, EC3M 8AF

WLC Rank : 223

Food Type Cuisine: Modern European

Glass PriceGlass from : £ 8 (125 ml)

+44 (0)333 772 0020

skygarden.london

restaurants@skygarden.london

BEST FOR

Georgian Wines
Champagne
Top of the City vantage
Discreet service
Simple, well executed, wine friendly dishes

Pastrav’s trips to cellar doors result in listings for which he says guests are happy to return. ‘They keep coming back for our wines from Georgia made in amphora, Hungarian Cabernet Sauvignon (Bock), biodynamic wines from New Zealand (Churton Estate), Gerard Bertrand’s wines from the Languedoc, and Planeta’s wines from Sicily.’

REVIEWS

Review 2018

Fenchurch, in the brow of the ‘walkie-talkie’ on floor 37, is a cocoon overlooking the lush foliage of the sometimes jarringly chilly Sky Garden complex and, if you are lucky enough to secure a side table, the reflective ribbon of the Thames which can look peaceful and pretty from on high. Here, head sommelier, Alexandru Pastrav (formerly of Harvey Nichols Fifth Floor Restaurant, The Victoria, Pennyhill Park and Danesfield House) has, despite logistical challenges inherent in creating an extensive wine offer in a high security building at altitude, and with some supplier ties evidently in place, built a list based on values of ‘quality, uniqueness, variety and balance.’

The inquisitive list should sate most wallets and palatal desires, ranging from Japanese Koshu to Chinese Cabernet from Shangri-La, not inappropriately-titled Lebanese – Ixsir Altitudes, and English fizz, as well as a more conventional, smart selection of ready to liberate bottles from the USA, Bordeaux and Burgundy. A happy interest in magnums prevails, too, including appearances of big bottles on some by the glass wines; also expect a broad church when it comes to sweet wines, including a rendition from Cyprus.

Pastrav’s trips to cellar doors result in listings for which he says guests are happy to return. ‘They keep coming back for our wines from Georgia made in amphora, Hungarian Cabernet Sauvignon (Bock), biodynamic wines from New Zealand (Churton Estate), Gerard Bertrand’s wines from the Languedoc, and Planeta’s wines from Sicily.’

Dishes, devised under the mantel of Southfields based caterer and restaurateur, Rhubarb and realised by chef Dan Fletcher (who previously worked at The Square) may include Dorset crab, smoked sweetcorn, leek and macaroni gratin, or steak tartare with truffle dressing, Berkswell cheese and crisp kale to begin (offered with Veuve Clicquot – all Champagnes are by LVMH), followed by cod fillet, squid linguine and king oyster mushrooms and bonito sauce (potentially paired with Escudo Rojo Chardonnay, Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Maipo). Culminate with blueberry, violet and lemon pavlova, or dark chocolate, green mandarin and cardamom (with Banyuls by Gérard Bertrand).

From this vantage with London at his feet, Pastrav foresees an increase in popularity in premium Languedoc Roussillon, Loire reds, organic, biodynamic, natural and vegan wines, alternatives to Champagne, particularly English sparkling, Cava and traditional method Italian, as well as USA Pinot Noir, top end Malbec, and German Riesling.

By Douglas Blyde.

Review 2016/17

WLC Overall Score 87.2

Value
85
Size
88
Range
89
Originality
87
Service
87

WLC Overall Rank : 223

Food Type Cuisine: Modern European

Glass PriceGlass from : £ 8 (125 ml)

+44 (0)333 772 0020

skygarden.london

restaurants@skygarden.london

Sommelier