Ikoyi

1 St. James’s Market, SW1Y 4AH

WLC Rank : 290

Food Type Cuisine: West African

Glass PriceGlass from : £ 6 (175 ml)

+44 (0)20 3583 4660

www.ikoyilondon.com

reservations@ikoyilondon.com

BEST FOR

Food Friendly Cocktails Uncompromisingly ingredient focused cultural cooking

The terse wine is list devised by the founders, who were childhood friends, Ire Hassan-Odukale (who looks after front of house, which, given the unusual ingredient list no doubt requiring constant explanations, is a substantial role) and Chinese-Canadian chef, Jeremy Chan, who worked at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, Noma and Hibiscus. ‘Our criterion is that wines stand out but are still delicious,’ says Hassan-Odukale, adding, ‘we find acidity as well as fruit notes, work best with the spice in our dishes.’

REVIEWS

Review 2018

Ikoyi, taking the name of a prosperous district of Lagos, aims to deliver ‘bold heat’, ‘umami’ and the ‘highest quality products’ in an art rich, glass fronted canteen at St James’s Market.

The terse wine is list devised by the founders, who are childhood friends, Ire Hassan-Odukale (who looks after front of house, which, given the indigenous ingredient list in dishes no doubt requiring constant explanations, is a substantial role) and Chinese-Canadian chef, Jeremy Chan, who worked at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, Noma and Hibiscus. ‘Our criterion is that wines stand out but are still delicious,’ says Hassan-Odukale, adding, ‘we find acidity as well as fruit notes, work best with the spice in our dishes.’

The landscape wine list barely nudges 25 bins over one page, with just eight offered by the glass, which may include dry Jurançon (Domaine de Souch), an acclaimed orange hued number from Friuli (Radikon), the perky South African fusing Viognier, Chardonnay and Riesling (Bouchard Finlayson) and Chianti Classico by Montesecondo. By the bottle, some bins stand out as a touch sheer in their mark-ups, such as the Chablis Clos Beru Monopole, and Drappier Champagne (Grande Sendrée Cuvée). However, this is a site located just moments from the gold paved streets of Piccadilly…

Arguably more interesting is the cocktail list, devised with Max and Noel Venning of Dalston’s Three Sheets Bar and oriented to work with food. This includes such potions as a Roast Plantain Old Fashioned with miso, and the Cassava Sour.

Also worth noting is the care expended on sourcing of the coffee, from ‘Matti the farmer in the Boyo region of Cameroon.’

Chan’s dishes require Wikipedia to decode, and may include Cameroonian style starter of octopus, ndolé and calçot, scallop, Ehuru (African nutmeg), or burned cream and caviar, followed by main courses such as cuttlefish with Nigerian influence, miyan taushe, calf’s tongue and sinasir rice pancakes. For sharing, order te turbot roasted on the bone with spicy black tomato based velvety mbongo sauce and okra.

Of the menu, which has featured dried crayfish and fermented locust beans, Chan says: ‘I feel we are pushing boundaries on rare African ingredients and the techniques we are using and inventing to create these dishes.’ 

By Douglas Blyde.

Review 2016/17

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WLC Overall Score 85.6

Value
87
Size
86
Range
82
Originality
83
Service
90

WLC Overall Rank : 290

Food Type Cuisine: West African

Glass PriceGlass from : £ 6 (175 ml)

+44 (0)20 3583 4660

www.ikoyilondon.com

reservations@ikoyilondon.com

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