Le Dame de Pic London
Anne-Sophie Pic’s debut London venture at the Four Seasons offers beautiful, fragrant dishes alongside a smart list by Director of Wine and Chateau Latour and Artemis Domaines Ambassador, Jan Konetzki.
Unique dishes by Anne-Sophie Pic
Celebration of the Rhône and Rhône-like international 'cousins'
Orange wine by the glass
A well known wine merchant described Jan Konetzki’s list at the graceful Dame de Pic as being ‘like a love poem for wine… Because there’s nothing missing. Because it’s not about having the longest list, but the most carefully chosen.’
La Dame de Pic’s home being Maison Pic in Valence, at the centre of the Rhône valley, it seemed natural to Konetzki to focus on the wines of the area, ‘especially as many others overlook the region,’ he says. ‘While I pondered the idea, a vast map of the river unfolded in my mind. From the glaciers to the Mediterranean sea, there is so much to discover. From hidden gems like aged Chassellas from Switzerland to ‘Grand Wines’ like Hermitage from J.L. Chave and Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Rayas. The Rhône has it all at different pinpoints.’ To make it ‘La version de Londres’, resembling the melting pot of countries and cultures, Konetzki and his couth team added a section of ‘cousins’ to offer international alternatives ‘in the vein of the Rhône style’. These may include biodynamic ‘Kalimera’ Biancolella from Itay’s volcanic island of Ischia close to Naples, described on the list as having the ‘perfume and richness of a great Viognier from the northern Rhône.’
While The Club at 10 Trinity Square is about classics, comfort ‘and a majestic old-world feeling’, La Dame de Pic is contemporary, elegantly aromatic and ‘so Frenchie’, notes Konetzki, full of familiar but perhaps ‘unexperienced’ flavours. ‘We speak to guests in either area and have something different to offer on the side. It is very special to be able to bid so different experiences under the same roof.’
Dishes, authored by Anne Sophie Pic may include starter of pretty, tiny hat-like ‘berlingots’ pasta parcels with lightly smoked Brillat-Savarin, green asparagus, bergamot and mint, then wild sea bass roasted with coco de Paimpol beans, sage and coffee infused dashi, or Brittany Pigeon in a marinade of Sumatran Bataks berry and Japanese Nikka whisky, with Jerusalem artichoke and blackberry, culminating with ‘The White Millefeuille’ of yellow Bourbon coffee cream, confit kumquat and Timut pepper foam.
Coffee, in both cup and cooking, as well as tea, are taken very seriously at Le Dame de Pic incidentally, along with a neat sake selection both here and at Japan meets China restaurant, Mei Ume, nextdoor.
By Douglas Blyde.
Anne-Sophie Pic is one of the most highly decorated chefs in France, with six Michelin stars to her name, including three at her flagship restaurant, Maison Pic, in Valance on the left bank of the Rhône. From a family of culinary whizzes, Pic is the third generation of her clan to have earned three stars, and did so with no formal training.
La Dame de Pic is a London spin-off of her more casual restaurant in Paris. Its wine list is curated by German-born head sommelier Jan Konetski, who was plucked by The Four Seasons from the three-Michelin-starred Gordon Ramsay Royal Hospital Road.
The gargantuan list is spread over 43 pages with a focus on the Rhône, but not exclusively, showcasing regional classics and lesser- known whites alike. French classics are at home at Le Dame Pic, but hunt carefully and you will find some esoteric gems.
By Lauren Eads - 2017