Les 110 de Taillevent
Food Type: French
Glass Price: £ 6 (175 ml)
Phone number: 020 314 16016
True to its name, the London version of the famous Paris staple offers no fewer than 110 wines by the glass (70ml or 125ml) from a total of 360.
As one might expect, the modern bistro, located in a former Coutts banking hall – although minimalism must have been the brief to designer Pierre-Yves Rochon, who also helped revamp The Savoy Hotel – pulls strong focus on La Belle France.
Diners with expense accounts will encounter a grand tour of ready-to-drink Burgundy and Bordeaux, including relative bargains such as 1996 Domaine Leflaive Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru – arguably the best liquid possible to heighten the experience of the epic veal T-bone scented with lemon thyme – and 2004 Haut-Brion, both priced close to retail price.
More modestly financed civilians meanwhile may enjoy the lower prices of the considerable listings from the Loire Valley, South West France, and mountainous Jura and Savoie, including Domaine JF Ganevat’s generous of flavour 'Rien que du Fruit' Chardonnay – a must with a langoustine ravioli with basil and citrus-spiked butter, which 14th-century chef to Charles V of France, Guillaume Tirel (nicknamed 'Taillevent') might be proud to see under his nomenclature.
Outside France, the 'World Wines' section of the list takes in an impressive catalogue of names from Spain, Italy (where good value Super Tuscans such as La Massa jostle alongside hallowed magnums of Ornellaia), and liquid celebrities from west coast US, with very much a lighter focus on Germany (just one, albeit well-priced, bin is held, in fact), as well as perky and plush offerings from Greece, Cyprus, South America, and South Africa (try Klein Constantia’s noble Vin de Constance with four puddings in one, 'Remembering Our Childhood').
If a sole diner, or part of a small group, we recommend taking a ringside seat at the bar counter, overlooking the state-of-the-art wine dispensers, where you may best engage with the team. However, it is worth noting that every item on the menu is already accompanied by four different suggested wine pairings in four different price brackets.
Finally, 'Wine Time', held al fresco when weather is clement (3:30-7pm) is 110’s elegant overhaul of afternoon tea…
By Douglas Blyde
• Jacques Selosse Brut Initial, Champagne - sparkling -
• Litton Cheney 2011, Cuvée Réserve, Bride Valley, UK - sparkling -
• Ajaccio 2013, Granit, Domaine de Vaccelli, Corsica - white -
• Hermitage 2007, Ex Voto, Château d’Ampuis, Rhône, France - red -
• Sonoma 2012, L’Après-Midi, Peter Michael, California, USA - red -
• Vin de Constance 2011, Klein Constantia, South Africa - white -