34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE
WLC Rank : 190
Glass from : £ 4.50 (125 ml)
An Exmouth market stalwart which delivers on all levels, and that includes the richly-textured Iberian list.
Oodles of fantastic Sherry – including a palo cortado from the wonderful Antique range from Fernando Castilla – come with helpful explanations of the various styles on offer and by-the-glass offerings which give the uninitiated the chance to get to grips with biological-aged, oxidatively aged and sweet styles (75cl measures from £7-10).
Moving on to the whites, Jumilla producer Juan Gil’s dry Moscatel is a good, affordable opener; the biodynamic, minimal-intervention Aphros offers a glimpse of the more ‘natural’ end of Vinho Verde; while the volcanic wonder of Trenzado Listan Blanco from Suertes del Marques in Tenerife is a must-try. Further up the list, bottlings from Nierpoort (Redoma, £58), Remelluri (Granja Remelluri Blanco, £110) and Terroir al Limit (Pedra de Guix, £89) make for a superfly top end.
Daniel Landi’s elegant Uvas de la Ira Garnacha (£51.50) leaps out from the reds list; this and Priorat star Alvaro Palacios’s Les Terrasses Garnacha confirm that here is a restaurant that’s friendly with one of the most ‘on it’ importers in the UK at the moment in Indigo Wines.
This is an assured list representing the best of Spain pretty succinctly.
By Darren Smith