The Alfred Tennyson
10 Motcomb Street, SW1X 8LA
WLC Rank : 171
Glass from : £ 5.50 (175 ml)
This tall Victorian gastropub takes the name of the much-loved Victorian poet, who contributed verse and quotations recited by generations, including “Tis better to have loved and lost than never to have loved at all”.
A bustling, bright, deceptively large warren of dining rooms benefit from a carefully curated list which dovetails the modern British menu with aplomb.
The entirely European selection of wines is simply arranged by colour and price, with 20 offered by the glass, including renditions from Nino Franco, who make arguably the smartest Prosecco on the planet. Some bins, which earn their spurs in quality and flavour terms, make it an occasionally idiosyncratic list, such as the dry Tokaji from Hungary and old vine Riesling from Marlborough, New Zealand.
The separate ‘from the vault’ list features some enticing bottles with attractively reasonable mark-ups, such as rare Clos de Marquis from millennium year.
Dishes range from what must be one of the best pea soups in London (also comprising broad beans and truffle crème fraîche) to main courses of slow-cooked rabbit leg with chorizo, tomato and green olive ragout and grain mustard dumplings, and a succulent venison haunch steak. Culminate with the rum and coconut cake with salted banana mousse.
By Zeren Wilson