The Gilbert Scott
St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, Euston Road, NW1 2AR
WLC Rank : 269
Glass from : £ £6.50 (125 ml)
A special venue – who can possibly resist the romance of a grand hotel restaurant so close to the ‘life-quickening atmosphere’ of a railway station, where ‘everything is something trembling on the brink of something else’ (Nabokov)?
There’s a fantastic collection of sweet wines here that stands above the crowd. You’ll also find impressive list of Chardonnays from around the world. Italy, Spain and Portugal get good coverage, too.
Listings are presented by grape variety rather than region, and it’s nice to see classics cosied up with some of the trendy new things – Testalonga El Bandito ‘King of Grapes’ alongside Henri Bonneau CNDP, for example.
House wine comes from biodynamic Provence estate Château La Coste at a wallet-pleasing £5-5.50 per glass; there’s a diverse listing of around 20 wines by the glass – ‘Martinenga’ Langhe Nebbiolo from Machesi di Gresy (£11) is a good shout, while Roberson’s London Cru even gets a listing.
Coravin also allows the venue to offer some exciting top-end wines, including Cheval Blanc’s Mendoza project Cheval Des Andes and Château Latour third wine ‘La Pauillac de Latour’ (2006 vintage, £35 a glass)
Magnum listings are pretty eyebrow-raising. Who would have thought to find big bottles of funkmaster Jean-François Ganevat’s De Toute Beaute (£145) in such an ‘old-school’ setting?
An interesting list which makes the classics pretty accessible while dipping its toe into the new and trendy stuff.
By Darren Smith