The Greenhouse

Food Type Cuisine: European

Glass PriceGlass from : £ 13.50 (175 ml)

27A Hay's Mews, Mayfair, W1J 5NY

98.3
Value
94.5
Size
100
Range
99
Originality
99
Service
99

Feted as the largest wine list in London, this is a supermodel of a collection from start to finish.

BEST FOR

A two-michelin-starred menu by Arnaud Bignon

Older vintage classics  

Tranquil dining in the heart of London

Review 2018

Sommelier and wine judge, Elvis Ziako oversees circa 3,500 bins at Mayfair’s Greenhouse, a sharp restaurant owned by Marlon Abela along with The Square, Umu and Morton’s club. ‘Our gastronomic identity focuses on the great region of Burgundy!’ says Ziako of the invincible list, built with patience and strategy, ‘from the simplicity of Mâcon, to Chablis from Raveneau, Jean-François’ Coche-Dury and Comte Lafon, with reds lead by the great names such as Armand Rousseau, Domaine Dujac, Sylvain Cathiard and the sumptuous Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.’ Ziako further enriches the list, which runs to more than 120 pages, with distinctive and consistent producers from the rest of the world, ‘such as Château Yvonne from the Loire Valley, Veyder-Malberg from Wachau, and David & Nadia Sadie from Swartland of South Africa, who, through their wines, are placed in the pantheon of the world’s greatest producers.’ He adds: ‘and of course, we can offer 35 vintages of Penfolds Grange reaching back to 1961…’

Ziakos feels both ‘privileged’ and ‘lucky’ to work at The Greenhouse, ‘delivering epicurean excellence.’ His memorable recent sips have included: Leroy Montrachet 1969, Leroy Château Palmer 1959, Penfolds Grange 1971, and ‘several vintages of Pétrus including 1982…’

Born in Greece, Ziako studied at Le Monde Institute, working as head sommelier at the coastal Kohylia restaurant at Grand Resort Lagonissi followed by Spondi in the city, before moving to London to join the team at Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley. ‘I have won many awards as a sommelier, including representing Greece at the Best Sommelier of the World competition,’ he says.

Dishes by Arnaud Bignon, who trained under Eric Fréchon of the three Michelin-starred Le Bristol in Paris, and, like Ziakos, also worked at Spondi, may include, from the tasting menu, veal sweetbread with pineapple, black sesame and ginger, then brill with onion, banana, kaffir lime and dukkah, or from the set lunch, piglet tandoori with pak choi, carrot and lemongrass, followed by kiwi, bergamot and buttermilk, possibly with Massandra Ukranian sweet wine, for a taste of history.

By Douglas Blyde.

Review 2016/17

 

This supermodel of a collection is curated by sommelier Elvis Ziakos. On it, cool oceans of Chablis include a startlingly large François Raveneau vertical, which would add citrus zip to classically-trained chef Arnaud Bignon’s subtly Asian-influenced, French-rooted dishes, including wild turbot with golden matcha tea and cauliflower.

Burgundy listings are, overall, eye-poppingly exciting, with older vintages of these and iconic Bordeaux being in plentiful supply. The huge listing of Penfolds Grange dating to 1961 must be one of the largest in existence.

A list that struts with its chest puffed out and head held high – pretty much peerless. 

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