The Laughing Heart
Food Type: International
Glass Price: £ 6 (125 ml)
Phone number: +44 (0)20 7686 9535
The food is brilliant. Not cheap, but brilliant. They do what they want, but they do it with skill and understated flair. If they want to put Peking duck on the menu, they will. If they feel love for prawn fried rice that will be added too, and will be the best prawn fried rice you’ve tasted.
Its wine list offers some of the best natural, minimal-intervention wines in the world. Such wines don’t come cheap, yet Mellor has shown a bold commitment to making these wines more accessible by setting margins almost as low as 60% for the bulk of what’s on offer (London average is 70%), with a basic £30 cash margin for the most expensive stuff.
You’ll find a great section of wines by the glass, which changes frequently, as does the main list. This is a restaurant worth discovering, with wine prices that make its discovery all the more attractive.
• Crémant de Limoux, 2014, Etienne Fort, Bouriege - France - sparkling - £38
• Domaine de la Tournelle, 2014, Fleur de Savagnin, Jura - France - white - £64
• J.H. Meyer, 2015, Chardonnay, Elgin - South Africa - white - £36
• Gabrio Bini, 2012, Serragghia Fanino, Pantelleria - Italy - rosé - £90
• Montebuono 1990, Barbacarlo, Pavia, Lombardia - Italy - red - £81
• Nerocapitano, 2015, Lamoresca, San Michele di Ganzaria, Sicily - Italy - red - £43