6-10 Bruton Street, Mayfair, W1J 6PU
WLC Rank : 11
Glass from : £ 9 (175 ml)
BEST FORModern haute cuisine
Choosing from 2,500 wines
Art work by Oscar Murillo and David Altmedj
There is exceptional value to be found in the pages of The Square's far-reaching wine list - the set lunch is also a steal.
Located amid Mayfair’s galleries and auction houses is the gallery-like dining room of The Square, featuring boldly wrought square canvases on its anthracite coloured walls.
Head sommelier, Andrea Zarbetto (formerly of Morton’s Club, which is also owned by Marlon Abela, CEO of MARC, along with Umu, The Greenhouse and wine merchant, OW Loeb) oversees an actually square-shaped list running to more than 2,500 references. These begin at just £25 for a bottle of Picpoul de Pinet, with circa 60 wines offered by the glass. Costing a fiver less than Moët & Chandon’s Brut Imperial, “the most popular wine is by the indie Champagne producer, Goutorbe Boillot: Reflets de Riviere Brut, Damery,” notes Zarbetto.
Dishes are beautifully realised by conjugal team, Clément Leroy from France’s Chantilly, and Aya Tamura from Tochigi, Japan, and may include Devon crab and sea urchin potato cream, foie gras in beeswax with blood orange and juniper, and roe deer and burrata with blackcurrant jus, possibly followed by whisky millefeuille with Tahitian vanilla and a glass of Riesling Auslese from the Mosel (Schloss Lieser).
In his low-lit cellar, kept to a constant 14° Celsius, Zarbetto, who is also a self-confessed fanatic of gin and Calvados, often leaves his own infusions to mature, such as the house-made Amaro. This gradually matures alongside flights of La Mission-Haut-Brion, Comtes Lafon, Mas de Daumas Gassac and d’Yqeum, as well as magnums of Bric dël Fiasc Barolo and Solaia. New listings include Gravner, sweet Veyder-Malberg, and clay bottles of Sepp Muster. Perhaps in honour of Abela’s country of birth, there are wines from Lebanon (Château Marsyas and Château Belle-Vue) as well as neighbouring Syria (Domaine de Bargylus). Also of interest, are the selection of “flawless” Syrahs from South Africa (Cuvée Ameena, Vins d’Orrance).
By Douglas Blyde.