4A Upper St Martin's Lane, WC2H 9NY
WLC Rank : 137
Glass from : £ 5 (125 ml)
A lithe list – yes, let’s call it that – a lithe list, flitting gracefully between New World and Old, with not an ounce of flab (for which, read ‘any rubbish wines’) upon it.
An apéro of Jenkyn Place Brut Cuvée 2010 – surely one of the most elegant English vintage sparklers out there – seems a sensible place to start. From there it’s a pretty pleasant pick-and-mix scenario, aided by Tredwell’s offering around 20 wines by the glass (including several wines on tap) and setting the bulk of the range in the £30-60 price bracket.
Among the whites, there’s a slight leaning towards New Zealand, with a Sauvignon Blanc from the excellent biodynamic Marlborough estate Seresin (£8.50 for 125ml, £49 a bottle) and a zippy Central Otago Riesling from Mount Edward (£56).
There are some tempting reds to choose from, too – ‘Amigos’ 2011 and ‘Tiger Country’ 2010 from McHenry Hohnen won’t disappoint, while Château Musar ‘Hochar’ (2011 vintage) will always be a welcome sight… Unless you don’t like VA.
It’s a list in pleasing harmony with the food menu, with some excellent pairing suggestions for the prix fixe menu – lightly smoked haddock raviolo, pea, parmesan and fennel paired with ‘Volratz 1573’ Schloss Vollrads Riesling? Yep, that’ll do nicely. Chargrilled pork collar, coco beans, chorizo, smoked créme fraîche and capers paired with Petrolo ‘Inarno’ Sangiovese? Well, all right then.
All in all, a list that serves the AA’s 2015/2016 Restaurant of the Year very well.
By Darren Smith