15-17 Blandford Street, W1U 3DG
WLC Rank : 162
Glass from : £ 9.10 (175 ml)
Step in Sunaina Sethi, whose steady hand is on the tiller here, as at sister restaurant Gymkhana, and, indeed, throughout the flourishing Sethi empire (Bao, Bubbledogs and Kitchen Table, Hoppers and Lyle’s).
Particular emphasis is given to wines abrim with aromatics and acidity, with Istria Malvazija (Santa Lucia, Kozlovic) and Grand Cru Gewürtztraminer (Steingrubler, Barmes Buecher, Alsace) poured by the glass on a list that also promotes the virtues of Greek Assyrtiko, dry Tokaji from Hungary and Luxembourgeoise Rivaner.
Every dish on the menu is offered with a corresponding wine, from Kori Gassi (chicken drumsticks, Mangalorean spices and coconut) with Bierzo, to guinea fowl biryani with Barbera d’Asti. The combination is a gastro-oenophile’s dream.