The seafood mad chef tells us about watching a lobster run around his kitchen as a boy, eating sea anemone in Spain, and why Champagne and fish ‘n’ chips is the best food and wine match.

WLC‘s Phoebe French heads to Lyon’s Seafood & Wine Bar in Crouch End for a scintillating stonebass tartare, flecked with flying fish roe, a miso-marinated fish collar and a decadent barley risotto flavoured with celeriac, hazelnut and bone marrow.