Review 2020

Head sommelier, Luca Luciani learnt to appreciate wine growing up in Italy’s Marche, visiting vineyards with his grandfather, tasting grape must straight off from the press.

Formerly of L’Anima (RIP) and Rossodisera, a Marche-focused dine-in deli by Seven Dials, Luciani remembers when he began at Locanda Locatelli as commis sommelier. “22nd September 2017 – an exciting place with 750 labels and the opportunity for fascinating food and wine matches, such as Pinot Bianco Rarità Terlan 2005 intertwined with Giorgio Locatelli’s chestnut tagliatelle with Parmigiano Reggiano, girolles, porcini, pied bleu and pied-de-mouton, finished with chives.”

Luciani reveals Lombardy-born Locatelli enjoys Sardinian Vermentino or Umbrian Sagrantino di Montefalco. On that note, Luciani always looks to expand his offer of indigenous grapes, such as “Coda di Pecora from Campania, Greco Moro from Lazio, and Gaglioppo from Calabria,” as well as orange wines, “an oenological philosophy which I would like to know more about.”

However, guests at this corner of the Hyatt Regency tend towards the established names of Barolo and Brunello di Montalcino, which they will find here represented, “and also Bolgheri, or Ripasso della Valpolicella,” says Luciani, who remembers the most unusual question he was asked by a guest was, “may I have white Chianti?” Ensuring a fresh perspective, wines by the glass, which may include Ben Rye Passito Di Pantelleria (Donnafugata) are decided by the whole sommelier team.

While predominantly Italian, the list offers a chapter entitled, “Italy In The World”. Hence, wines with an Italian heritage, be it grape variety or maker might include a Nebbiolo from Barboursville Vineyards, Virginia, or Cabernet Sauvignon Antica reaped from Napa’s Antinori Family Estate.

When not at Seymour Street, the holder of degrees in accountancy and literature and philosophy devotes his time to studying for the Court of Master Sommeliers, and soon, the WSET diploma. He has also written about the fermented grape within the magazine, “Marcheguida”.

Despite operating a global restaurant empire including an eatery at Atlantis, Dubai, and being a judge of the current, ninth season of MasterChef Italia, Locatelli has been intimately involved in ensuring Locanda Locatelli, London gets back on track in times described as the “new normal” to the extent one of his daughters even helps out on reception.

Fortunately, post lockdown, the average spend per person on wines and spirits has actually risen, reports Virgilio Gennaro, Wine Director at Giorgio Locatelli Consultancy. “We’ve received CVs from people including a commis who used to work with us, and an Italian coming from Italy.”

An established restaurant, Locanda Locatelli has fostered a tight-knit sommelier community. “We like to stay in touch with our former sommeliers, many of whom have become famous, such as The Ritz’s Giovanni Ferlito,” says Gennaro.

Instagram: @locandalocatelli

By Douglas Blyde.

Review 2019

Head sommelier, Luca Luciani says he learnt to appreciate the beguiling scent and taste of wine while growing up in Fermo within Italy’s Marche, “a comune of just 38,000 people,” he says. “When I went to the vineyard with my grandfather during harvest, he insisted I tasted the must as soon as it was pressed.”

Formerly of L’Anima (RIP) and Rossodisera, a Marche-focused dine-in deli by Seven Dials, Luciani precisely remembers when he began at Locanda Locatelli. “22nd September 2017,” he says. “A really exciting place with 750 labels and the opportunity for fascinating food and wine matches, such as Pinot Bianco Rarità Terlan 2005 which intertwines with chef Giorgio Locatelli’s signature chestnut tagliatelle with Parmigiano Reggiano, wild girolles, porcini, pied bleu and pied-de-mouton, finished with chives.” Another memorable match is fortified, aromatised, Barolo Chinato Montezemolo with chocolate and amaretti custard with Amaretto caramel and fresh whipped cream.

Lombardy-born Locatelli is a dedicate to the Negroni in its 100^th year, shares Luciani. “Giorgio’s Negroni as we call it always features Carpano Antica Formula and Tanqueray No. 10,” he says. “And as far as wine is concerned, he is never lacking a glass of Sardinian Vermentino or Sagrantino di Montefalco, although he is always open to trying a new label.” On that note, Luciani is looking to expand his offer of indigenous grapes, such as, “Coda di Pecora from Campania, Greco Moro from Lazio, and Gaglioppo from Calabria.” He is also looking more closely at biodynamic and orange wines, “an oenological philosophy which I would like to know more in-depth.”

However, guests at this corner of the Hyatt Regency tend to prefer the established names of Barolo, Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti, which they will find strong represented, “but also Bolgheri, or Ripasso della Valpolicella,” says Luciani, who remembers the most unusual question he was asked by a guest was, “may I have white Chianti?”

When not at Seymour Street, the holder of degrees in both accountancy and literature and philosophy devotes his time to studying about wine, with occasional interludes to the theatre. He has also written about the fermented grape within the pages of the magazine, “Marcheguida”.

By Douglas Blyde.

Review 2016/17

One of the best Italian lists in town, and some pleasingly good value picks too. £25 for a very decent Verdicchio, in a Michelin starred joint? Very welcome.

Lovingly crafted selections of Super Tuscans, star Piemonte wines, with most regions of Italy given due reverence. All beautifully bound in Italian leather with gorgeous maps of each region to pore over. A list to flick through for quite some time…