Review 2020

Using the same pudgy, fashion-defying typeface which appears on Jura wine bottles, Levan is a play on the words, “Le Vin” while paying homage to the late USA DJ, Larry Levan, famous for his decade residency at Paradise Garage, New York City. One of his well-thumbed records appears on a unit bowing with “a treasure trove” of Jura wines, arranged by the producer. Mind behind, Mark Gurney explains his fascination with the territory, “which has Triassic clay exposed by the pressure of the mountains giving wines tension and texture.” Renditions include a Poulsard made by Frederic Cossard and a line-up by luminaries, Bénédicte et Stéphane Tissot including sparkling Indigéne.

Rather than call himself a “sommelier,” Mark Gurney describes himself as a “wine investigator.” With Nicholas Balfe and Matt Bushnell, Gurney launched Levan in Peckham half a decade after the hugely successful Salon wine bar, restaurant and off-licence in Brixton’s Market Row. Inspired by what Gurney refers to as the “bistronomy” movement and the team’s favourite haunts in Paris, Copenhagen, Barcelona, Stockholm and Berlin, punchy dishes realised by Irish-raised, Lithuanian chef Jurgis Merksatis (formerly of Hoxton’s Cub) may include from the set lunch, duck hearts with egg and wild mushrooms, or from the main menu, chilli beef tartare with miso, togarashi and kale, and main of turbot with bisque, fennel, lovage and black olive – as well as impeccably raised Alpine cheeses such as Beaufort from Savoie with optional verre of Vin Jaune. Be sure to nibble on the monolithic Comte fries with saffron aioli, too.

Gurney, who originally worked in music, and recalls selling a bottle of Flaccianello to Coldplay’s drummer at Levan, has never been a fan of the term, Fine Wine. “It’s quite an exclusive term, but I still love to offer older vintages from interesting worldwide producers who are broadly more ‘classic’ in style and approach.” Hence Super Tuscan 2004 Ornellaia is offered at the bargain price of £230. “That would be £600-700 in most central London restaurants!”

Gurney’s tastes are ever-evolving, “with my experience and exposure to new things.” Those things can be people, places or culture “and that’s the best part! I’m as excited about discovering new young winemakers as I am about drinking dusty old Burgundy. I’m also interested in regions undergoing a quiet renaissance such as Cahors – with bags of history or a reputation for a certain old-school style. But which has a new-wave of winemakers breaking away from ‘traditional’ approaches.”

Day-to-day, the list is looked after by one Colin Grandfield who worked at Rules as a cocktail bartender before opening Café Murano with Gurney. As well as wine, expect wine barrel-aged beer.

And beside Levan you will find the team’s most restrained, diner-like offering to-date. Taking the first name of DJ Larry Levan, expect a stripped-back wine list at Larry’s scribed on a lightbox with keg house wine, “and five guest wines.” Inspired by Pompette, Copenhagen and Buvette, Paris, the former bakery has a few bright green seats and orange tables and a small menu of Italo-Jewish dishes which Gurney calls, “simple and slutty including banging salt beef sandwiches, XO cabbage with clams, and a daily changing cheesecake.” A duo of cocktails includes the tongue-in-cheek rye and Cynar, “Larry’s Horn”, named after “a speaker box created by DJ Larry…”

Instagram: @levanlondon

By Douglas Blyde.

Review 2019

“The word, ‘Sommelier’ makes my skin crawl – it’s not the setting I’m in. I’m more like a ‘wine investigator’ trying to figure out what the hell people want!” says Mark Gurney, co-creator with Nicholas Balfe and Matt Bushnell of Levan in Peckham (formerly the trailblazing Peckham Refreshment Rooms) which is the sister site to Brixton’s Salon.

“We nearly called it Jura but thought people might confuse us with that lovely island off the coast of Scotland known for whisky,” says Gurney. “We also thought about calling it Trousseau, but Google revealed that as well as being a grape in the Jura along with Savagnin and Poulsard, a trousseau is the apparel a bride collects in anticipation of marriage…”

Using the same chunky typeface which appears on Jura wine bottles as their logo, Levan is a play on the words, “Le Vin” while paying homage to the late American DJ, Larry Levan, famous for his decade-long residency at New York City nightclub, Paradise Garage. Gurney pulls out a record of that name from a unit which also features a vinous line-up by Bénédicte et Stéphane Tissot – part of a three-page selection from the often steep Jura département between Burgundy and Switzerland. These are enthusiastically supplemented with “Jura varietals from around the world” including Patagonian Trousseau (Bodgea Miras).

Inspired by what Gurney refers to as the “bistronomy” movement and the team’s favourite haunts in Paris, Copenhagen, Barcelona, Stockholm and Berlin, punchy dishes may include silken house-cured sardines, monkfish crudo with ponzu and pickled chilli, particularly sumptuous truffled roast cauliflower with crisped kale and Parmesan, and impeccably raised Alpine cheeses such as Beaufort from Savoie with optional glass of Vin Jaune. Be sure to secure the blocks of Comte fries with saffron aioli, too.

Gurney, who recently sold a bottle of Flaccianello to Coldplay’s drummer at Levan, has never been a fan of the term, Fine Wine. “I feel it’s quite an exclusive term, but still love to offer interesting producers with older vintages who are, broadly, more ‘classic’ in style and approach. For example, we have a stunning super Tuscan 2004 Ornellaia on for the bargain price of £240. That would be £600-700 in most central London restaurants!”

Gurney’s tastes are ever evolving, “changing with my experience and exposure to new things. Those things can be people, places or culture and that’s the exciting part. I’m just as excited about discovering new young winemakers as I am about drinking old vintages of dusty Burgundy. I’m also really interested in regions undergoing a quiet renaissance. Bordeaux, Champagne, Cahors – with bags of history or a reputation for a certain old-school style. But who have a new-wave of winemakers breaking away from ‘traditional’ approaches. Super exciting!”

When not at Levan or Salon, you may well encounter Gurney winding down at The Winemakers Club, Westerns Laundry, or Nest, “a tiny place run by a young hungry team focusing on every part of an animal.” His girlfriend, Aimee Hartley is founding editor of the wine-led magazine, Above Sea Level, meanwhile.

By Douglas Blyde.