8 Seymour Street, W1H 7JZ
WLC Rank : 52
Glass from : £ 7.50 (175 ml)
BEST FORLine-ups of Gaja and Gulfi
Wines of the Marche
The section entitled ”Italy in the World”
Useful maps illustrating the list
A brilliant list prepared by dedicates to Giorgio Locatelli, celebrating Italian wines, be they modern or classical, as well as international wines with an Italian connection.
Head sommelier, Luca Luciani says he learnt to appreciate the beguiling scent and taste of wine while growing up in Fermo within Italy’s Marche, “a comune of just 38,000 people,” he says. “When I went to the vineyard with my grandfather during harvest, he insisted I tasted the must as soon as it was pressed.”
Formerly of L’Anima (RIP) and Rossodisera, a Marche-focused dine-in deli by Seven Dials, Luciani precisely remembers when he began at Locanda Locatelli. “22nd September 2017,” he says. “A really exciting place with 750 labels and the opportunity for fascinating food and wine matches, such as Pinot Bianco Rarità Terlan 2005 which intertwines with chef Giorgio Locatelli’s signature chestnut tagliatelle with Parmigiano Reggiano, wild girolles, porcini, pied bleu and pied-de-mouton, finished with chives.” Another memorable match is fortified, aromatised, Barolo Chinato Montezemolo with chocolate and amaretti custard with Amaretto caramel and fresh whipped cream.
Lombardy-born Locatelli is a dedicate to the Negroni in its 100th year, shares Luciani. “Giorgio’s Negroni as we call it always features Carpano Antica Formula and Tanqueray No. 10,” he says. “And as far as wine is concerned, he is never lacking a glass of Sardinian Vermentino or Sagrantino di Montefalco, although he is always open to trying a new label.” On that note, Luciani is looking to expand his offer of indigenous grapes, such as, “Coda di Pecora from Campania, Greco Moro from Lazio, and Gaglioppo from Calabria.” He is also looking more closely at biodynamic and orange wines, “an oenological philosophy which I would like to know more in-depth.”
However, guests at this corner of the Hyatt Regency tend to prefer the established names of Barolo, Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti, which they will find strong represented, “but also Bolgheri, or Ripasso della Valpolicella,” says Luciani, who remembers the most unusual question he was asked by a guest was, “may I have white Chianti?”
When not at Seymour Street, the holder of degrees in both accountancy and literature and philosophy devotes his time to studying about wine, with occasional interludes to the theatre. He has also written about the fermented grape within the pages of the magazine, “Marcheguida”.
By Douglas Blyde.
One of the best Italian lists in town, and some pleasingly good value picks too. £25 for a very decent Verdicchio, in a Michelin starred joint? Very welcome.
Lovingly crafted selections of Super Tuscans, star Piemonte wines, with most regions of Italy given due reverence. All beautifully bound in Italian leather with gorgeous maps of each region to pore over. A list to flick through for quite some time…