Review 2020

Not a fusion restaurant, but a showcase of two noble cuisines, Mei Ume (meaning “plum blossom” in Chinese and Japanese) combines the culinary talents of Cantonese head chef, Tony Truong who previously worked at Royal China for a quarter of a century, and Korean sushi chef, Kyle Lee (Chotto Matte, Café Royal).

Jan Konetzki, who oversees all wine operations at 10 Trinity Square, including the selection in the suites (indeed, he can be hired to your room to discuss cellar building or to perform a mini masterclass for the hourly price of a lawyer), has authored a confident wine selection to suit most wallets in what is, beyond the silk lining paper, a beautifully crafted list.

Wines are explained by Hungarian sommelier, Jeno Kaiser, formerly of The Arts Club. Choices include a friendly-of-price, Pfalz Auxerrois (Dengler), exuberant Trousseau Gris from the Russian River Valley, and feisty Faustine Corsican rosé (Domaine Abbatucci) ranging to the half bottle of heatwave “brother” to the Grand Vin, Forts de Latour. Konetzki notes a number of guests tend to enjoy fine wine in small portions at Mei Ume, often dining solo at the counter.

Alongside wine, sake is the preserve of Go Satoyama (formerly of Yauatcha), with flights, such as that served on a bespoke bamboo board by the Keigetsu brewery, or indeed in three colours, making an excellent, affordable means to discover the intricate world of finely milled rice.

Food and drinks matching can be problematic when sharing dishes, family-style, from two noble cuisines, Konetzki realises. “Sushi is a celebration and elevation of a raw product, while Cantonese is about how many things can you put into a dish while still achieving harmony,” he observes. “People drink very differently at Mei Ume compared to how they might next-door at La Dame de Pic. Whatever you choose to do, you’re always right and a bit wrong, because the food has so many aspects to it.”

There are some outstanding matches if you really get involved though, however. Hence, with whole Peking duck served across two courses, first with pancakes, leeks and cucumber, then as a crispy duck salad with cherry tomatoes and juicy tonkatsu dressing, Konetzki recommends Bruno Paillard’s “Premiere Rosé” (first pressing) Extra-Brut Champagne, or the terroir-inspired, iodine, lemon and pear scented sparkling sake, Keigetsu ‘John’ from Kochi, originally made for owner, Mr. Matsumoto’s good friend and wine aficionado, John. “A sip of that with a duck sandwich is a super happy combination.”

Meanwhile, Pinot Noir, be it the mini Gevrey-esque Fixin (Frédéric Magnien) or Grand Cru Chambertin, Clos de Béze (Pierre Damoy) “sleeps with everybody”, muses Konetzki.

Diners flock to Mei Ume for a multitude of reasons, including specific celebrations, such as Chinese New Year when the restaurant is adorned with lanterns.

Instagram: @meiumelondon

By Douglas Blyde.

Review 2019

Mei Ume (meaning “plum blossom” in Chinese and Japanese) combines the culinary talents of Cantonese head chef, Tony Truong (formerly of Royal China) and South Korean sushi chef, Mun Seok Choi (Zuma and Sake no Hana).

Masterly, Jan Konetzki, who oversees wine operations across all outlets at 10 Trinity Square, has authored a confident wine selection to suit most wallets, including a friendly-of-price, German Auxerrois (Dengler), exuberant Australian Pinot Gris (Beurrot, Kooyong), and sprightly Corbières (Domaine Ollieux Romanis), ranging to the half bottle of heatwave “brother” to the Grand Vin, Forts de Latour. Alongside, the sake list has notable clarity in its explanations, hence in Akashi-Tai Genmai Yamadanishiki Aged brew, which is available as part of a flight, “…we find walnut, forest floor, stewed meat and leather, slightly reminiscent of an Oloroso Sherry.”

Food and drinks matching can be problematic when sharing dishes, family-style, Konetzki realises. “Sushi is a celebration and elevation of a raw product, while Cantonese is about how many things can you put into a dish while still achieving harmony,” he observes. “People drink very differently at Mei Ume compared to how they might next-door at La Dame de Pic. Whatever you choose to do, you’re always right and a bit wrong, because the food has so many aspects to it.”

There are some outstanding matches if you pay attention, however. Hence, with whole Peking duck served across two courses, first with pancakes, leeks and cucumber, then as a crispy duck salad with cherry tomatoes and juicy tonkatsu dressing, Konetzki recommends Bruno Paillard’s “Premiere Rosé” (first pressing) Extra-Brut Champagne, or the terroir-inspired, iodine, lemon and pear scented sparkling sake, Keigetsu ‘John’ from Kochi, originally made for owner, Mr. Matsumoto’s good friend and wine aficionado, John. “A sip of that with a duck sandwich is a super happy combination.”

Meanwhile, Pinot Noir, be it the mini Gevrey-esque Fixin (Frédéric Magnien) or Grand Cru Chambertin, Clos de Béze (Pierre Damoy) “sleeps with everybody”, muses Konetzki.

By Douglas Blyde.