10 Greek Street
10 Greek Street, W1D 4DH
WLC Rank : 93
Glass from : £ 4.25 (125 ml)
BEST FORBalanced, nuanced, ingredient-focused dishes
The little black book
Homemade beer and excellent martinis
The meek Soho staple has a cheap, cheerful and very considered wine and beer list, supplemented by a little black book of aged and dazzling goodies.
Restaurateur and brewer, Luke Wilson was born to literary parents: Charles Wilson, the marine without a degree who edited The Times, Independent and Daily Mail, and, “doyenne of the glossies”, Sally O’Sullivan, who ran Good Housekeeping, Ideal Home and Options. Prior to 10 Greek Street, the graduate of Biological Sciences worked at The Zetter and The Ambassador, and for importer, Liberty Wines, serving the City.
In recent years, inspired by a seventeenth-century brewery in Bamberg, Bavaria, Wilson has reaped much respect amid his peers and patrons for his line of Braybrooke beers, crafted at the former grain store of his family’s farm in Market Harborough. These include slightly tropical New Zealand Pils in homage to 10 Greek Street’s Kiwi head chef and investor in the project, Cameron Emirali, a lighter Session lager, chocolatey Keller lager, and deep Cold Brew lager scented with coffee roasted near the brewery. Seasonal specials include a smoked lager, “which goes very well with grilled or roasted meats,” he says. Look out, too, for the “Smash”, i.e. “single malt and single hop.”
Wines within the avocado-coloured dining room must be driven by purity of fruit and a sense of freshness to earn a place on Wilson’s core list, with Greek wines being a recent addition, endorsed by bar manager, George Symillides (formerly of Heist Bank). These “are included not just because of our address, but because they’re very good,” says Wilson. Note the special relationship with Nyetimber vineyard, with the odd bottle of library stock featured in the Little Black Book. Being one of London’s first such supplementary lists of its kind, the stock is neatly written in pencil and might include below market price Château Lafite 1983, near incomprehensibly reasonably priced Ornellaia, and Montes Taita as well as toothsome stickies. These are often sourced from trusted private collectors.
Dishes by co-owner and chef, Cameron Emirali (previously of Wapping Project RIP) may include the small plate of fried cuttlefish and n’duja mayonnaise, and Roman-style pizzas such as the tomato, burrata, butternut squash and kale Trapanese, followed by orange financier and stem ginger ice cream. Emirali has strong form also in preparing exceptional feasting menus, perhaps themed around black and white truffles, for those wishing to take advantage of the private room downstairs.
When not at 10 Greek Street or brewing in Leicestershire, Wilson continues to work on a book about the restaurant.
By Douglas Blyde.