48 Gresham Street, EC2V 7AY
WLC Rank : 15
Glass from : £ 5 (125 ml)
BEST FORBurgundy as well as international expressions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
An intuitive approach to wine pricing
Two private rooms with high ceilings.
Big format bottles
Realised by two charismatic Master Sommeliers, Cabotte is a lettre d'amour to Burgundy with thoughtful, clean, complete dishes to complement.
Founded by two Master Sommeliers, Cabotte is named after the small stone huts dotting Burgundy’s vineyards which offer workers refuge from the harsher elements. Located on Gresham Street, the restaurant itself offers City workers a happy haven from unsettled markets.
The minds behind are blues guitarist and charity marathon runner, Gearoid Devaney who is also the director of Flint Wines, and Xavier Rousset who became a Master Sommelier at just 26 years old. They met on a merchant-organised visit to producers, Dujac and Rousseau in 2000. “My first wine trip and Gearoid’s second,” recalls Rousset. “None of Gerard Basset’s head somms could go so off I went, bonding with Gearoid at 4 am at Le Galleon nightclub. On returning to the hotel, Gearoid assumed I knew Beaune inside out just because I was French and we promptly got lost, wandering around the ramparts…”
Formerly a Be At One cocktail bar, Cabotte has been skilfully reimagined in a way perhaps best described as polished rusticity, complete with textured plaster, a shiny vine sculpture and backlit mirrors. “We’ve both spent time in venues dressed as penguins but wanted a more relaxed vibe here,” says Devaney.
Best savoured from huge Zalto glasses, the comprehensive Burgundy-focused list includes 800 handpicked listings from the territory including the broad ranges gleaned from Cabotte’s partners, the 12 Domaines of: Duroché (Gevrey-Chambertin), Taupenot-Merme (Morey-Saint-Denis), Hudellot-Nöellat (Chambolle-Musigny), Henri Gouges (Nuits-Saint-Georges), Cathiard (Vosne-Romanée), Lebreuil (Savigny-Les-Beaunes), de Montille (Volnay), Ballot-Millot (Meursault), Jobard (Meursault), Etienne Sauzet (Puligny-Montrachet), Pernot-Belicard (Puligny-Montrachet) and Château Moulin-à-Vent (Moulin-à-Vent).
Devised by head chef, Ed Boarland, a lover of Champagne and big fan of game, dishes fit the duo’s brief to be “simply presented, clean and refined.” That is not to say they lack complexity, however. Indeed, Boarland trained at The Waterside Inn, subsequently working under Clare Smyth at Royal Hospital Road. Expect hare, rabbit, and French squab with umbles, as well as, in homage to Burgundy, beef cheek bourguignon, and then, for two to share, apple Tarte Tatin with Cornish clotted cream.
Rousset’s empire also includes Blandford Comptoir and Comptoir Café and Wine, as well as, with Devaney, the pioneering TRADE members club for the hospitality trade, and most recently, The Gunmakers pub, Marylebone. Of this empire, he hints, “I’m done now – at least in London.”
Keep an eye out for events at the restaurant, including the collaboration with the Nuits Saint-Georges restaurant twin, La Cabotte.
By Douglas Blyde.