Review 2016/17

L’Anima’s list lovingly catalogues a thoughtful cross-section of Italy’s smaller, and often environmentally-committed, producers alongside a dozen celebrity-grade bottles of Bordeaux.

The finest bins are racked in an LED-illuminated, glass-fronted wine trove of a space which may also be booked as a somewhat cool in temperature private dining room. These include: Ornellaia (offered by the glass) as well as Sassicaia, Masseto and the ultra-rare Ornellaia Bianco.

The list also embraces the emerging influence of more ‘natural’ wine-focused wineries, such as Simčic in Slovenia. It’s an inquisitive selection in which you may glimpse an Etna Bianco alongside Calabrian Mantonico.

Chef Antonio Favuzzi – protégé of previous patron, Francesco Mazzei – was born in Sassari, Sardinia, to a Sicilian mother and Puglian father. He cooks beautifully presented, depthful, updated dishes with a notable weave of acidity, which are worthy of the ‘soul’ which gives the restaurant its title.

These may include antipasti of hand-picked crab with sea urchin and sweet red onions, primi of acquarello risotto with wild garlic, mussels and Grana Padano Riserva cheese, and a signature secondi of 21 days dry-aged beef fillet tagliata with marrow bones, buffalo blue cheese and sharp salsa verde.

The dining room, by Claudio Silvestrin, who is considered to be one of the masters of contemporary minimalism, collages raw porphyry, travertine and limestone with white leather, to a clean and impressive, if sometimes noisy, effect.

By Zeren Wilson