This is a ballsy first few shots that show the ambition of the list. After that there are verticals of Ruinart Champagne (many in magnum), Krug (magnums again, and Clos du Mesnil), plus Dom Pérignon, Salon and Cristal. A staggering selection of Champagne.

Oceans of Bordeaux and Burgundy await, while there are also serious Australian selections from McLaren Vale and Coonawarra, along with Argentine Malbec. It’s a list to read before arrival – and going with true wine friends is recommended.

Another point to note; L’Etranger is so confident in its approach to pricing that it offers a price match service to diners, if they can find any of its wines listed at a lower price elsewhere in London. Can’t say fairer than that.