18 Phipp Street, EC2A 4NU

WLC Rank : 55

Food Type Cuisine: European

Glass PriceGlass from : £ 7 (125 ml)

020 7739 4443



Vinyl collection
Kitchen counter dining
Wines ranging from eclectic to classic
Service included in menu pricing
Wines from Ruppert Leroy & Richard Leroy

Ed Thaw’s exciting list opens with the mantra, “May we drink as long as we want to... and want to as long as we drink.”


Review 2020

Announced with a bold script by “genius” Louise Sheeran “who did the artwork and menu headings,” Leroy is brought to you by sommeliers, Ed Thaw and Jack Lewens, and chef Sam Kamienko – the team behind Ellory (RIP). “Leroy was Ellory’s more easily-pronounced pet name,” shares Thaw. Rather than the “fun and buzzy, frenetic wine bar” of the pre-lockdown era, Leroy’s reduced capacity is something Thaw is looking to keep. “That means a pricier menu which will lead to a more refined experience.”

Thaw, who read history at Cambridge University, aims for a cellar “free from dogma,” where wines have “something to say.” Rather than discuss “boring” matters such as sulphur content, he aims to mix “the fun and funky” with the classics. “Just as I don’t want to drink cloudy grape juice all-night-long I don’t want to drink average Burgundy either.”

Rather than focus on food and wine matching, Thaw prefers to match wines with guests, and post-lockdown, he dispensed with giving guests the wine list. “Most people are rubbish at ordering wine. Sure, there’s a minority who love to look through a list and sometimes that is me. In your garage you let your mechanic get on with it once you’ve agreed what work needs doing. Having guests feel awkward is not something I want, and while I definitely buy the idea that you have to ‘see it to sink it’, and thanks to trading standards you can see the whole list on your phone or on our website, I do think it is time to move beyond the physical list.”

Considerably “fitter” than a year before, Thaw increased purchasing of Burgundy, Bordeaux “and wines with age,” such as pre-Chanel ownership 1990 Château Canon St. Émilion. However, “there is still plenty of obscure, trendy stuff for the young kids. Variety is the spice of life!” Hence the Qvevri Pinot Blanc/Chardonnay from Tillingham East Sussex, the magnum of Ganevat Jura Chardonnay (Marguerite), and described as “Orangeish, Pinkish and Everything In Between” The Prince in His Caves Scholium Project Sauvignon Blanc from Sonoma. Meanwhile, Thaw has a love of grower Champagne. “Wines with age and a balance between new and natty and classic. No echo chambers!”

Dishes on the concise, dynamic menu by Kamienko, of whom Thaw says, “long may he reign,” may include mussels with ham broth, the Christian Parra boudin noir, parsley root and charred radicchio, named after “the sadly departed two Michelin-starred chef whose Boudin Noir this is,” and chocolate ganache with boozy cherries.

Thaw notes atmosphere affects the appreciation of wine. “There seems to be some rule that you should only play happy music in restaurants which I definitely don’t agree with. Wine and music are paths to reflection and there’s something thrilling about playing Joy Division on a real pisser of a day.”

In what he calls “humble times,” Thaw opened a new residency for rotisserie brand, Royale at East London Liquor Co. “I think those who got out there and created new business and jobs rather than sat at home are the ones who are doing better now.”

Instagram: @leroyshoreditch

By Douglas Blyde.

WLC Overall Score 92.7


WLC Overall Rank : 55

Food Type Cuisine: European

Glass PriceGlass from : £ 7 (125 ml)

020 7739 4443