Review 2020

Reopened to “great reception from the members” according to Wine Director, Tim Parkinson, Oswald’s, opposite the Faraday museum on Albemarle Street, magnetises the most well-heeled and discerning of wine lovers. It takes the name of founder, Robin Birley’s royal portraitist grandfather, Sir Oswald Hornby Joseph Birley. Murano chandeliers, country house-like fireplaces and a cupola soaring to the cigar terrace, bring interest to an interior opulently realised by designers, Tom Bell and Bruce Cavell who overhauled the formerly minimalist Michael John hairdresser to Birley’s exacting vision. Meanwhile, a curvaceous, deeply carpeted staircase leads to a lounge bar where, at near retail price, Krug flows from ornate ice buckets.

Australian-born Wine Director, Tim Parkinson worked for Robin Birley since 2005, initially at Annabel’s Cellar then 5 Hertford Street which he helped open in 2012. Prior to moving to our shores, he experienced “a misspent time” studying economics at Sydney University before discovering “the true joys of the wine world.”

Oswald’s was born out of a discussion on the often vertigo-inducing wine prices in London restaurants. “So many of the world’s great wines disappear from wine lists as they become more collectable and valuable, so we wanted a club environment which allowed these icon bottles to be offered at more sensible prices,” says Parkinson of his “amazing collections” perhaps including library releases from Domaine Leflaive, “reconditioned before release and recorked with Diam 30s.” And founding members may store and drink their own wines in the Club.

“House wines” are always poured from magnum, and may include nervy Raveneau Petit Chablis, served in John Jenkins crystalware. This will be priced astonishingly humbly, with the raison d’être of the list being to focus on “drinking vintages” from both the Old World and the New. “We are fortunate to have very good relationships with Châteaux and producers around the world, with much of the list being sourced directly for the club list,” says Parkinson.

Dishes, by head chef, Gianluca Cossu (formerly of Birley’s Upstairs restaurant at 5 Hertford Street, and London’s incarnation of Nice bastion, La Petit Maison) are created “with a view to a wine-friendly menu,” says Parkinson, and may include vitello tonnato, risotto Milanese, Josper roasted Veal T-bone for two, and a selection of freshly made pastas.

Oswald’s has played host to a procession of standout wine producer dinners, including Harlan Estate, hosted by Bill Harlan and Don Weaver, and Lafite-Rothschild with Jean-Guillaume Prats.

Service of the hallowed, though surprisingly boisterous club, where tables often send blind samples to other tables with a chuckle to discern, is overseen by General Manager, Michele Caggianese.

Membership is similar to that of sister company, 5 Hertford Street, notes Parkinson. “Applicants need to be recommended by existing members and there is a waiting list.”

By Douglas Blyde.

Review 2019

A bibulous Nirvana for well-heeled oenophiles, Oswald’s, opposite the Faraday museum on Albemarle Street, takes the name of founder, Robin Birley’s royal portraitist grandfather, Sir Oswald Hornby Joseph Birley MC RA. Opened in May 2017, glass pillars, Murano chandeliers, grand fireplaces and a glass cupola brings character to an interior lavishly realised by designers, Tom Bell, and Bruce Cavell who overhauled the former minimalist Michael John hairdresser according to Birley’s exacting vision. This now includes, at the top of a curvaceous staircase, lounges, bar and cigar terrace.

Wine Director, Tim Parkinson worked for Robin Birley since 2005, initially at Annabel’s Cellar then 5 Hertford Street which he opened in 2012. Prior to coming to the UK, he experienced ‘a misspent time’ studying economics at Sydney University before discovering ‘the true joys of the wine world.’

Oswald’s was born out of a discussion on the often vertigo-inducing wine prices in London restaurants. ‘So many of the world’s great wines disappear from wine lists as they become more collectable and valuable, so we wanted a club environment which allowed these icon bottles to be offered at more sensible prices,’ says Parkinson. ‘And founding members may store and drink their own wines in the club.’

‘House wines’, including Krug Grande Cuvée 164ème Edition and potentially, Raveneau Petit Chablis are poured from magnum into John Jenkins crystalware, offering a window onto an astonishingly humbly priced list focused on ‘drinking vintages’ from both new and old world. ‘We are fortunate to have very good relationships with Châteaux and producers around the world, with much of the list being sourced directly for the club list,’ says Parkinson.

Dishes, by head chef, Gianluca Cossu (formerly of Birley’s Upstairs restaurant at 5 Hertford Street, and London’s incarnation of Nice bastion, La Petit Maison) are created ‘with a view to a wine-friendly menu,’ says Parkinson, and may include vitello tonnato, risotto Milanese, Josper roasted Veal T-bone for two, and a selection of freshly made pasta dishes.

Oswald’s has played host to several standout wine producer dinners, including Harlan Estate, hosted by Bill Harlan and Don Weaver, and Lafite-Rothschild with Jean-Guillaume Prats.

Service of the hallowed, but surprisingly boisterous club, where tables often send blind samples to other tables to discern overseen by General Manager, Michele Caggianese.

Membership is similar to that of 5 Hertford Street, says Parkinson. ‘Applicants need to be recommended by existing members and there is a waiting list.’

By Douglas Blyde.