Quality Chop House
Food Type: British
Glass Price: £ 4.50 (125 ml)
Phone number: 0207 278 1452
Dating to 1869, this Grade II-listed Farringdon dining room offers quality in both name and nature. Indeed, the value-quality ratio here is notably high, offering some seriously good drinking at very fair prices – which is what you might expect from a venue co-run by Will Lander, son of wine writer Jancis Robinson and restaurant critic Nick Lander.
Numbering around 70 wines, the list is, in the restaurant’s words 'a broad church', without specific focus but ably reflecting some of 'the world's most interesting wine regions and styles' right now.
At the time of writing, at £21 per bottle, entry-level red Château Thenac from Périgord may be the best red in town at that price point, helping tame chef Shaun Searley’s generous, protein-led dishes which may include Hereford mince and dripping toast, Middle White pork or Texel lamb, as well as legendary confit potatoes (hands-on butchery masterclasses which occur below the butcher’s shop next-door may be booked in advance, incidentally).
The list is cleanly, simply laid out, easily navigated and unintimidating, despite comprising a collection of fairly serious producers. All in all, well-chosen, frequently refreshed and all delivered in one of the most atmospheric and friendly places to dine in London: a potent combination.
By Zeren Wilson
• Chardonnay 2010, Hamilton Russell Vineyards, Walker Bay, South Africa - white - £105
• Grüner Veltliner Kammerner Heiligenstein 2014, Weingut Hirsch, Kamptal, Austria - white - £45
• Alvaro Castro 2013, Dao, Portugal - red - £35
• Matassa 2014, Domaine Matassa, Roussillon, France - white - £75
• Barbacarlo 1994, Lombardy, Italy - red - £90
• Gewürztraminer Heimbourg 2008, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace, France - white - £28