Jay Rayner warms to English sparkling

Guardian columnist Jay Rayner has changed his views on the British sparkling wine industry, after previously slamming the category for offering poor value for money.

(Photo: John Arandhara Blackwell)

The outspoken restaurant critic told the drinks business that the continuing diversification of the sparkling category, within the UK hospitality sector, had enabled English sparkling wine to find “a more comfortable niche.”

“It’s true that I’ve been very critical of English fizz in the past, but my views are changing,” said Rayner.

“I feel that the price points have become more reasonable, and that the quality has risen. Five years’ ago, being offered a glass of English fizz in a bar would have given me pause, but not today.”

Rayner also opined that by-the-glass offerings across the on-trade had improved “immeasurably” in recent times.

“The offering is so much more interesting,” he said. “Champagne, Cava and Prosecco have been joined by some really good value, alternative styles such as Cremant.”

Former Michelin chef and restauranteur Marco Pierre White has also been a staunch critic of English sparkling.

“English sparkling wine is ridiculously overpriced. I just can’t justify selling it at my restaurants, especially when the quality doesn’t rival Champagne,” said White.

In the past, Rayner has never been short of strong opinions about the UK’s food and drink industry.

In 2016, as reported by db, he slammed the “bollocks spouted by wine connoisseurs,” suggesting diners should ignore them and buy “the cheapest wine on the list.”

Leave your reply

Most Recent Stories

Noble Rot partners with The Wine Society

Noble Rot Mayfair has opened a new cellar private dining room with a special collection from The Wine Society  to welcome the occasion. 

London's hottest restaurant openings: December 2023

Christmas is the time of year to eat, drink and be merry – here are some of the new London spots worth dropping by this festive season.

Tributes paid to Russell Norman

The restaurateur credited with transforming London's dining scene with the opening of Polpo, Spuntino and Brutto, died last week at the age of 57.

Mendoza sweeps up Michelin stars

In the very first edition of the Michelin Guide in Argentina, Mendoza took home four of the six stars in an awards ceremony last week firmly placing the wine region at the top of any gastronome’s bucket list of places to visit.

WLC Eats: The Clove Club, Shoreditch

Douglas Blyde heads to what was once Shoreditch Town Hall to visit The Clove Club. While there, he explores the two Michelin-starred restaurant's "masterful" and "memorable" tasting menu, and raises the question of why chef-patron Isaac McHale hasn't written a book yet.

Most Recent Stories

Noble Rot partners with The Wine Society

Noble Rot Mayfair has opened a new cellar private dining room with a special collection from The Wine Society  to welcome the occasion. 

London's hottest restaurant openings: December 2023

Christmas is the time of year to eat, drink and be merry – here are some of the new London spots worth dropping by this festive season.

Tributes paid to Russell Norman

The restaurateur credited with transforming London's dining scene with the opening of Polpo, Spuntino and Brutto, died last week at the age of 57.

Mendoza sweeps up Michelin stars

In the very first edition of the Michelin Guide in Argentina, Mendoza took home four of the six stars in an awards ceremony last week firmly placing the wine region at the top of any gastronome’s bucket list of places to visit.

WLC Eats: The Clove Club, Shoreditch

Douglas Blyde heads to what was once Shoreditch Town Hall to visit The Clove Club. While there, he explores the two Michelin-starred restaurant's "masterful" and "memorable" tasting menu, and raises the question of why chef-patron Isaac McHale hasn't written a book yet.