9. Garrus Château d’Esclans 2016
The style: Dry, barrel-aged rosé
The medal: Master
The score: 97
The price: Approx £50+
The sugar content: 1.1 g/l
The ABV: 14%
The closure: Cork
The producer: Château d’Esclans – Domaines Sacha Lichine
The source: Côtes de Provence, France
The grape varieties: 54% Grenache, 44% Vermentino, 2% Cinsault
The taste: As we’ve said before, it should be stated at the outset that this blockbuster of a wine is barely a rosé. Looked at through its thick clear glass bottle, it’s more like a deeply-coloured white wine than a pink product, although it is made predominantly with red grape Grenache. Now, if it were judged as a white, people would praise its wonderful balance of fresh fruit and smoky, gently nutty, barrel-source characters. As a rosé, however, it takes the style into new extremes, surprising tasters with its toasty aromas, as well as it high price – no still rosé is more expensive than Garrus.
But, once the shock of a oak-aged, £80 rosé passes, the product can be enjoyed for its ripe, red fruit flavours, creamy texture, and grapefruit lift on the finish, along with a lovely note of grilled nuts. Layered, bright, and oh-so-pale, no other rosé is quite like this one. But none are as memorable either.
