Jay Rayner slams Tuscan winery’s ‘dismal’ Mayfair restaurant

Il Borro Tuscan Bistro London, a spinoff of the Ferragamo family’s Valdarno winery, was the subject of a scathing review from The Observer critic.

Credit: Instagram user tuscanbistrolondon

The Ferragamo fashion dynasty might be best known for luxury shoes, but it is no stranger to the world of wine. Il Borro estate has been in the family since 1993, and is currently managed by siblings Salvatore and Vittoria Ferragamo.

Produce from the estate, including extra-virgin olive oil, honey and, of course, wine, have made it to the Berkeley Street restaurant, which opened in November last year.

Il Borro Tuscan Bistro’s website promises “a true farm-to-table concept”. But Rayner deemed it to have: “…a menu priced to part bored rich people from their money.” He was also less than impressed with the resident DJ playing a “disfigured” Joy Division cover.

Describing the wine service, he wrote: “Vaguely terrified-looking waiters hover about with carafes of aggressively priced reds, their spouts so performatively long and thin you don’t know whether they’re going to top up the punters’ glasses or catheterise them.”

As for the wine itself, he notes that none of Il Borro’s whites were on the list and that the cheapest bottle cost £50: “I find a delicious Villa Sparina Gavi at £80, which I could buy retail for £16.45. So that would only be a mark-up by a factor of four. Just shut up and drink your wine.”

While the wine was “delicious” (albeit expensive and not from the eponymous estate), Rayner was far less complimentary about the food. He claims that the focaccia had the “dense, moist texture of a sodden Tena pad”, the fried seafood was “limp”, the £46 seafood pasta was “meagre”, and the chicken flown in from Tuscany was “dull and torpid”.

With the bill coming in at £334 for two (including a shared £12 tiramisu), Rayner concluded: “What’s really depressing is the lack of ambition in a city full of great Italian restaurants. What’s even more depressing is that it’s doing a roaring trade.”

Indeed, that “roaring trade” might be because not all of the reviews have been quite so brutal. Michelin Guide UK tweeted praise for the cheesecake (but not the plating). Upon the restaurant’s opening, Hot Dinners gave the somewhat backhanded compliment that the food “does the job”.

Earlier this year, the Ferragamo family sold its Castiglion del Bosco winery in Val d’Orcia.

This article was originally published by the drinks business and has been shared with permission.

Leave your reply

Most Recent Stories

Spending on drinks and restaurants in the UK has shot up 57% since 2020

Brits continue to spend big in restaurants and bars despite higher costs, according to research by UK digital payment provider takepayments.

Five of London's best Irish pubs

Irish pubs are for all year round, not just St. Patrick's Day. WLC rounds up five of London's best.

WLC recommends: Sessions Arts Club, Clerkenwell

Douglas Blyde heads to Clerkenwell to visit chef Florence Knight's Sessions Arts Club. There, he finds food to match the captivating interior, and a largely Italian wine list from head of wine Molly Pepper Steemson that focuses on "less breadth, more depth". Taken from the 2022 Wine List Confidential guide.

Developers ordered to rebuild pub after demolishing it

The developers behind the illegal demolition of Lancashire's Punch Bowl Inn two years ago have been ordered by a court to rebuild the historic pub brick by brick.

Martell announces Alexandre Mazzia collaboration

Cognac brand Martell, part of the Pernod Ricard portfolio, has announced a four year collaboration with Alexandre Mazzia, chef at the three-Michelin-starred AM in Marseille.

Most Recent Stories

Spending on drinks and restaurants in the UK has shot up 57% since 2020

Brits continue to spend big in restaurants and bars despite higher costs, according to research by UK digital payment provider takepayments.

Five of London's best Irish pubs

Irish pubs are for all year round, not just St. Patrick's Day. WLC rounds up five of London's best.

WLC recommends: Sessions Arts Club, Clerkenwell

Douglas Blyde heads to Clerkenwell to visit chef Florence Knight's Sessions Arts Club. There, he finds food to match the captivating interior, and a largely Italian wine list from head of wine Molly Pepper Steemson that focuses on "less breadth, more depth". Taken from the 2022 Wine List Confidential guide.

Developers ordered to rebuild pub after demolishing it

The developers behind the illegal demolition of Lancashire's Punch Bowl Inn two years ago have been ordered by a court to rebuild the historic pub brick by brick.

Martell announces Alexandre Mazzia collaboration

Cognac brand Martell, part of the Pernod Ricard portfolio, has announced a four year collaboration with Alexandre Mazzia, chef at the three-Michelin-starred AM in Marseille.