Michelin has revealed which dishes its inspectors took a particular liking to throughout the year, from calves liver with mash, to 60-day aged beef rib and Donegal lobster.
On 27 March, this year’s Michelin stars were revealed at a ceremony celebrating the release of the Michelin Great Britain and Ireland Guide 2023.
When asked about their most memorable dishes, it was more than just the Michelin-starred restaurants which made up the minds of Michelin’s mysterious inspectors as location, history, chef and restaurant style also reportedly had a hand to play.
The notoriously mysterious Michelin inspectors are experts in food, fine dining and masters of masking their identity. All inspectors are sworn to absolute secrecy and must never let a restaurant know if it is being tried. Disguised as regular customers, inspectors will even pay for their own food and visit an establishment several times to ensure it is deserving of any award.
So which dishes were this year’s showstoppers, according to the critics?
Calves’ liver with bacon, onion, mash and cabbage – Broad Chare, Newcastle Upon Tyne
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Broad Chare describes itself as a ‘proper pub’, offering a modern take on a traditional ale house. Situated within a warehouse, it has a cosy bar offering bars snacks and an accompanying dining room which aims to serve gastropub meals at fair prices.
Isle of Lewis turbot, Shetland mussels and hispi cabbage – Etive, Oban
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Etive is a small intimate restaurant in Oban, Scotland serving up dishes from locally sourced ingredients alongside local wine. Its changing menu, ‘land and sea’, consists of dishes which are “carefully cooked, full of flavour and classically based with a subtle modernity”, as described by Michelin.
Walsh’s lamb, Ottoman spiced firik, carrot, gooseberry, kumquat and isot – dede, Baltimore
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Located in Baltimore, Ireland, dede earned its second Michelin star this year thanks to Chef Ahmet Dede who’s Turkish heritage is the bedrock of his “beautifully composed and exquisite cuisine”, according to the Michelin Guide. With an emphasis on traditional Turkish flavours, chef Ahmet uses raw fresh ingredients and works closely with local producers in West Cork, where the restaurant is situated.
60 day aged beef rib, morels, salsify, red wine and thyme – White Swan, Fence
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The White Swan, better known to locals as the ‘Mucky Duck’ for its reputation as a post-work pint spot for miners, kept its one Michelin star this year. It is best known for its traditional but relaxed atmosphere, serving up food, real ale and fine wines and ‘nothing more’, according to its owners. Its menu changes regularly and the restaurant often hosts guest chef evenings.
BBQ Donegal lobster glazed with cacao pod concentrate & Kari Gosse, carrot & citrus, and aromatic lobster sauce – Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen, Dublin
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Mickael Viljanen’s Chapter One is a stylish basement restaurant located beneath the Writers Museum in Dublin, which focuses on using luxury ingredients in a classic French style with a touch of modernity. Here, you can book a seat at the chef’s table to watch “Mickael’s creativity and personality shine through in perfectly balanced, immaculately executed dishes with sublime natural flavours and beautiful presentation”, as described by Michelin.
Gaeng massaman neua – Plaza Khao Gaeng, London
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In the Arcade Food hall on Oxford Street is Plaza Khao Gaeng, roughly translated to “curry over rice”, it is south Thai restaurant which prides itself on authentic ingredients and dishes. Its food, which is described as celebration of coast to jungle cuisine, was awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand this year.
This article was originally published by the drinks business and has been shared with permission.